LA BOTA DE MANZANILLA (nº 8)
“LAS CAÑAS”, saca of October 2007
D.O. Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Limited release: 2,500 bottles (75 cl.)
Bodega: Miguel Sánchez Ayala S.A. Sanlúcar de Barrameda
The fourth edition—now sold out—of “La Bota de...” was selected from the oldest manzanilla in the house of M. Sánchez Ayala, located in the Barrio de la Balsa in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, between the streets Banda Playa and Divina Pastora. It consisted of 1,500 bottles which literally evaporated upon opening: the wine’s saline complexity and powerful palate dictated its fate. Nobody has ever heard of a second-day impression or of leftovers.
The wine remains intact and splendid several days after opening, but due to this “evaporative” quality few have had the opportunity to verify this in person. The eighth release of “La Bota de...” is a reedition of number four that provides a new opportunity to do so for those who can wait. In this case 2,500 bottles were sourced from 12 butts of the total of forty that constitute the solera. These twelve are—according to the demanding standards of Equipo Navazos—those that present the most genuine profile.
This is a terroir manzanilla, a status derived from both the single-vineyard origin of the grapes and the ageing process of the wine. The grapes are sourced from the vineyard ‘Las Cañas,’ located in the Pago Balbaína, from which the wine takes its name. The finesse of these Palomino-based musts, together with the moist and mild atmosphere of the bodega as a consequence of the proximity of the sea and the freatic layer, result in this delicate wine of upfront acetaldehyde derived from its consistent ageing under flor. Following the tradition of Sanlúcar, this manzanilla is aged along a dozen scales that are frequently run (refreshed) with small sacas.
La Bota de Manzanilla, due to its personality and freshness, is a dreamed table partner for hors d'oeuvre as well as—more surprisingly, perhaps—hearty dishes, cleansing the palate beautifully. It has been bottled unfiltered to preserve its authenticity, which is why it should be carefully stored according to its exceptional quality, that of one of the great white wines of the world.
Jancis Robinson: “Very delicate, super-tangy wine at the top of its game. Deep gold and deep flavoured, almonds dominate the nose. This is Manzanilla at the peak of its powers. Positively resonates on the palate. Very long.” (en www.jancisrobinson.com - junio 2008)
Peter Liem: "More than two years after bottling, it’s developed a round, burnished richness, its flavors of toffee, salted cashews, and almond butter contrasted by tangy, mineral salinity. Compared to the more recently bottled No. 16, it feels much more mellow and velvety at this stage, though it retains Manzanilla’s distinctively salty pungency." (en The World of Fine Wine, issue 29, September 2010)
Encantadísimo: “Presenta un color amarillo dorado brillante, con mayor limpidez y un aspecto más aceitoso (como de aceite refinado) que la edición anterior (núm. 4). En nariz no he apreciado grandes diferencias; ahí están las algas, el mar, las aceitunas, el monte seco, las almendras… Es en boca donde, con similar intensidad, aprecio una mayor nitidez, con un paso quizá más frutal, menos corpulento y con una puntita de alcohol, adquiriendo el conjunto un carácter más jovial, fresco y chispeante. Particularmente me parece más agradable y apetecible, como muy insinuante y predispuesta a que se abuse de ella. Sensacional, todavía más bella.” (en www.flickr.com/photos/encantadisimo/)
Elmundovino: "Amarillo oro muy intenso. Aroma de buena intensidad, complejo, con evidentes sensaciones de vejez y un agradable fondo salino, con recuerdos de higos y frutos secos. En boca muestra una buena estructura, buena acidez, gran intensidad y un final muy largo y persistente." (en www.elmundovino.com - junio 2008)
REVIEWS AND RATINGS
Jancis Robinson (www.jancisrobinson.com - February 2010): 19 pt
"Delicate and ethereal and lively. Super refreshing. This would be a wonderful wine to serve your most discerning friends instead of a really fine dry Riesling."
Jancis Robinson (www.jancisrobinson.com - June 2008): 18.5 pt
Margaret Rand (Decanter, May 2010): ***** 18,5 pt
"A soft nose of smoked fish, and an austere palate, softer than no. 16, just as silky."
Elmundovino (www.elmundovino.com - June 2008): 18.00 pt
Fourth position in the Wine of the Year Sibaritas Award 2008 (winner, and second, were another two wines by Equipo Navazos)
Guía Peñín 2009: 95 pt
Verema.com: 9,3 pt (averaged after 10 tasting notes, by 26 november 2010)
Many thanks to Prof. Dr. Ernesto Suárez Toste
for his invaluable help in the English version of this web
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