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LA BOTA DE FINO  (nº 2)

“MACHARNUDO ALTO”, saca of June 2006

D.O. Jerez-Xérès-Sherry

15% alc.

Limited release: 800 bottles (75 cl.)

Bodega: Valdespino, Jerez de la Frontera

 

The second selection was an unshaven fino from Bodegas Valdespino, the only house in Jerez that still today lets its finos ferment following a traditional practice: in the butts where they are to remain afterwards to complete the biological ageing process under the veil of flor. Sourced from nine different butts carefully selected from among the oldest fino solera available in the cellars, La Bota de Fino nº 2 is also a terroir wine, since its scales are refilled exclusively with musts from the Macharnudo Alto vineyard, a truly privileged terroir to the north of Jerez, in the best area of the mythical Pago Macharnudo, that has belonged to Valdespino for centuries.

This is a wine for connoisseurs, bottled unfiltered in order to preserve its racy character, hence its color, the one an old fino should have: deep yellow with golden and greenish hues. It can be enjoyed upon release, merely hours after abandoning the butts it has inhabited for an average of ten years. However, its evolution in bottle will continue to delight consumers for quite a while, provided it is carefully stored. After a few years it will reward decanting in order to eliminate reductive notes.

These ‘finished’ finos and manzanillas are racy and powerful, and they rank among the most versatile wines on the table, suited to some glorious pairings: thin slices of jamón de bellota, croquetas de puchero, fresh Galician oysters on the half, etc.

It performs best if served in white wine stemware (by all means avoid the copita), at temperatures ranging from 9/10º C, where it shows a lighter and fresher profile, to 14/15º C, where it fully displays its complex and rich aromatic range.

Like the opening edition of ‘La Bota de’, the 800 bottles of this saca were destined to private cellars.

 TASTING NOTE

Peter Liem: "As the Finos from this single-vineyard solera age in bottle, they seem to become darker in flavor and more concentrated. After three and a half years, this one is so intense and gripping that it requires tasting in very small sips. It’s dense and savory, with a powerfully heady and complex fragrance, exploding on the palate with savage notes of meat broth and roasted game that stand in sharp contrast to the silky texture and elegantly refined build. Utterly original wine." (in The World of Fine Wine, issue 29, September 2010)

 J. Gómez Pallarés: “It avoids the pale yellow hues of most industrial finos, and boasts a glorious deep yellow, with even darker copper hues close to those of an amontillado. The first impression in the nose is a note of old wood (from the butt it has recently abandoned), damp, reductive, faintly kerosene. One is quickly won by its rotundity, the depth and purity of aromas that resemble those of the best finos but which express themselves more powerfully here: notes of olive seed, salted almonds, sea salt during the low tide, olive grove in fully ripened season, penetrate the nose pungently. The palate is pleasantly round, even more expressive, and the aftertaste evokes ship deck, oak, salt and sunset, the arrival at dusk, great ham in thin slices.” (at www.devinis.org - translation from Spanish)

REVIEWS AND RATINGS:

Jancis Robinson (www.jancisrobinson.com - febrero 2010): 18,5 pt

Verema.com: 9,3 pt  (averaged after 19 tasting notes, by 26 November 2010)

Many thanks to Prof. Dr. Ernesto Suárez Toste 

for his invaluable help in the English version of this web

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